Santorini

The Caldera

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

The window seat next to me was empty on my Aegean Air flight from Athens to the island of Thira (Santorini) in the Greek Cyclades.  Even though the view was beautiful, I did not move to the unoccupied seat as it would have reminded me of the person I was supposed to be on this holiday with, and who had unceremoniously dumped me via text two days prior to our departure.  My boss at the time asked if I was still going to go; of course I was!  He thought I was crazy.

After an extremely aggressive right hand turn to land, we taxied to the very 1970s Thira International Airport.  As every romantic couple on the flight waited for their luggage, I took my lone carryon bag to the car rental desk.  I chose to rent a car because it was recommended on a completely spurious website that I am pretty sure was paid for by the Santorini Car Rental Association.  The little Peugeot was completely useless, unnecessary, and never left it's parking space at my hotel.

Imerovigli

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

Of the three cities on Santorini (Fira, Oia, and Imerovigli), I would be staying in Imerovigli at the "Gold Suites" resort.  A collection of bungalows set into the rock of the caldera (the mountainous land mass surrounding the very volcano that created the island of Thira), it was hands down one of the most beautiful places I have ever stayed. 

The view from my bungalow

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

The lovely young lady at check-in gave me a quizzical look (this would become a theme during my trip) when I said I would be staying alone.  All was made right though when she directed me to the hotel bar, by the swimming pool, as my room was prepared.  Here I met Demetrios; truly one of the world's great barmen.  He made me a Negroni that made my sorrows of heartbreak disappear.  

Skaros Rock

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

Well lubricated by Demetrios's magnificent cocktails, I elected to go for a walk.  My point of interest was Skaros Rock.  It is a large formation that juts out into the caldera and is situated almost right in front of the hotel.  In the mediaeval period, Skaros was the largest settlement on Thira and was home to a massive fortress and over 200 homes.  However, the aforementioned volcano erupted again in 1650 and crashed the entire settlement into the sea... 

Ioana in front of the Chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

On the far side of Skaros, facing into the sea, is the Chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti.  This is where I would meet the lovely Ioana, who was on holiday from her home in Milan.  The terrain was rough, and we both were struggling in our flip-flops.  Ioana was kind enough to be my model in front of the Chapel (picture above).  I think her presence makes the photo one of the best I have ever taken. 

Fira

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

The next day I decided to explore the city of Fira.  Santorini's capital and largest city, it is full of shops and restaurants.  At the bottom of the cliffs that Fira sits on there is the island's cruise port.  You can either take the stairs or there is a gondola lift.  I did neither because I can't stand cruise ships.  However, you can also catch a water taxi to the city of Oia on the far end of the caldera.

After spending the day in Fira, on the walk back to my hotel in Imerovigli I stopped at a local restaurant. Even though I was by myself (aka single), they agreed to seat me. Speaking to the owner, I learned that during the thunderstorm the evening before lightning had struck one of the blue domes in Fira and blasted it out.  I was amazed, but apparently it happens a lot as there is so much steel reinforcing the concrete domes.

You can see the dome on the right 

was damaged by lightning the night before.

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

As Demetrios was setting up the Gold Suites bar on the morning of my third day in Santorini, we discussed what I should do next.  Having mentioned I was a bit of a hiker, he suggested I take the long walk to the city of Oia on the other side of the island.  I could see it was a very long way, but Demetrios was kind enough to give me 3 bottles of water for my journey.

The Assumption of the Virgin Mary Chapel,

on the mountain path to Oia.

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

The hike from Imerovigli to Oia really is a hike.  Once you leave the city, the path turns into a proper rocky mountain trail. There is a spot where you can rent a goat and guide to carry your arse over the mountains, but they were off that day.  It took about two hours to hike the whole way.

The Influencer Capital of the WOrld: Oia

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

Oia is easily one of the most beautiful and picturesque places in the world.  Because of this, it is full of 'influencers'. I must admit, I had never seen anything like it: women from teenage years to their 40s, dressed to titillate, were lining up at key photo-locations for HOURS.  This wasn't for me.

Amoudi Bay

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

Desperate to escape the scourge of the Instagram models, I headed towards Amoudi Bay.  Sitting below the city of Oia, it takes 200 steps down a steep decline to get there.  The 200 steps back up means that an American tourist has never been to Amoudi Bay.

Armonia Beach

(Canon A-1/Kodak Ektar 100)

After an ice-cream and bottle of water, I proceeded along a rocky footpath going away from Amoudi Bay.  There I found Armonia Beach.  This was my favourite experience in Santorini.  The water was so clear, the view so idyllic, I couldn't help myself but to have a swim!  Something so simple, but a moment I shall never forget.   

At that point there was nothing left to do but start the long hike back to Imerovigli.  I would fly to Athens the next morning, but that is another adventure...