Venice

 

The Grand Canal

(Canon F-1/ Kodak Portra 400)

While in Milan my travel companions grew tired of me, and on their suggestion, I took a train to Venice.

Exiting the train station of 'Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia', itself a stunning example of 1930s Fascist architecture, the first thing you see is the Grand Canal with the stone 'Ponte degli Scalzi' bridge crossing it. It is such an iconic view that I literally said, "Holy shit, I am in Venice!".  I've uttered it time and time again, it is so bizarre when you go to a place that is literally out of the movies.

I had arrived on a Friday morning in February.  This turned out to be unbelievably fortunate as, although it was a tad chilly, there were no crowds there until around mid-afternoon.  Being one of the top tourist destinations in the world, Venice becomes shockingly packed during the warmer months.  Do a quick Google search for "Venice crowds", look at the pictures, then look at my pictures.  You will see the difference.

Gondola

(Canon F-1/ Kodak Portra 400)

With no agenda or game plan, I just started walking.  I was lost almost instantly in the narrow streets. For the first few hours I did not see a single tourist; even then I knew what an amazing and rare treat that was!

Venice is a very old city made up of 118 islands, mostly separated by canals and connected by over 400 bridges.  There are no cars, which alone takes you back in time, and the only way to get around is by foot or boat.  

According to legend, Venice was founded by Romans fleeing nearby cities being attacked by the armies of Attila the Hun.  In the Middle Ages it would form into a republic that would become a large maritime empire in the region.  During the Second World War, Venice was a centre for resistance against the regime of Mussolini until it was liberated by British and New Zealand forces in 1945. History lesson over!

Commuting in Venice

(Canon F-1/ Kodak Tmax 400)

I really loved Venice...in February.  If I had been there in July I have no doubt that I would have absolutely hated it.  Venice forces us to face the uncomfortable reality of over-tourism.  With a permanent population of 258,000 people, the city must face 13 MILLION tourists visiting every year.  It is literally sinking under the weight of the Instagram ‘influencers’.

What to do?  Recently Venice has banned large cruise ships from the main canal, but they can still use a nearby port.  A few days before writing this article, the city announced it would introduce a 5 euro tourist entry fee.  Seems a bit weak, doesn't it?

The truth is, although everyone agrees that over-tourism is a massive problem causing irreversible structural and environmental damage, it's hard for the Venetians to look past the money it brings.  Without the throngs of the most awful people in the world coming during the warmer months the hundreds of coffee shops, souvenir stores, and restaurants would be up the Grand Canal without a gondola.

Visit in the winter.

Streets of Venice

(Canon F-1/ Kodak Portra 400)